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The Mannequal®

Interview

‘Forgotten in Fashion’

Why the fashion and modelling industry is still resisting the integration of individuals with disabilities.

Sophie Morgan interviewed by Helen Elizabeth Worsley

         Question 1.  Firstly, had you ever seen or heard of a model with a visible disability before the series you were involved in,  and was it something you had considered and looked into being involved in?

No I had never heard of a disabled model before I got involved with ‘Britain’s Missing Top Model’ (B.M.T.M). The concept was completely new, and I had never considered it, as it was not something that I would have been interested in as a career, disabled or not. I was attracted to the concept, which lead me to get more involved.

Question 2. Tyra Banks stated on a recently aired episode of ‘Americas Next Top Model’, ‘If you don’t fit the clothes, you don’t work.’ In my research I have discovered that this view exposed is one held by many in the high fashion industry. What is your view on this?

I have two responses to this question. The first regards the ‘high fashion’ industry that you are commenting on. The ‘high fashion’ industry is extremely elitist, and adheres to its own rules about whom should ‘fit’ the clothes they produce. Much like any other luxury goods, haute couture has to maintain an illusion of grandeur and appear exclusive so that it can demand such high prices and continue to exist. Bank’s statement comes from experience, and there is nothing wrong with stating that if a model does not flatter the clothing then she cannot work, that is a models job. However, the problem lies in the fact that most retailers will not permit a disabled model to work, even if s/he ‘fits the clothes’ – which of course some do, beautifully.

On another note however I think it is incredibly important to stress that even if the ‘high fashion’ industry behaves in this stereotypically selective way the high street should not mimic it, as our high street must enable everyone to follow the fashion that they want to. Again the same rule ought to apply that a model can only work if they can ‘fit the clothes’, but at this level it ought to be compulsory to represent every demographic fairly.

Question 3.  In your opinion, what do you feel are the main reasons why areas of the fashion industry are resisting this new revolution of the inclusion of those with disabilities?

I don’t think it fair to say that the fashion industry is resisting inclusion of people with disabilities. Shops are more accessible than ever, training programmes on disability awareness are almost mandatory, goods and services are more often than not made accessible and in general we are catered for incredibly well.

The next step however is to improve on this and try to implement the use of disabled models or display products that reflect the disabled community. I have been trying to integrate a fiberglass wheelchair for a mannequin (Called a Mannequal) and so far I have been met with positive responses and support for the concept, but it takes time and careful consideration, as it is an incredibly sensitive subject. While this can be frustrating as it often impedes a shops decision to try and improve disability representation, it must be understood and accepted but ultimately challenged.

Sourcing a disabled model can be difficult as there are not many agencies that represent them, so choice can be limited. Accordingly using the product that I have designed eliminates this issue and ensures that all disabilities are represented, as the Mannequal has been designed to reflect of the symbol of disability – the wheelchair.

I also can’t help but believe that my generation, who will succeed the positions of power in the fashion industry eventually, will be more open and aware of these issues and will be able to change the system from the inside.

Question 4. One side to the debate accuses the use of disabled models as a cynical manipulation to make the brand more high profile? What are you thoughts on this?

I can understand why it may be considered as a ‘token’ gesture for using a disabled model can generate a lot of press I’m sure. Even its well-intended people will always look with cynicism and scepticism at someone’s motivation. It is significant that even the winner of the extremely popular B.M.T.M is not modeling, nor are any of the other contestants, and the successful use of a disabled model has not happened yet without the help of a highly publicised and televised campaign.

Question 5. Do you think the Fashion Industry holds the power to change the ideals of beauty? And do you think it ever will in this case?

Without question the fashion industry changes and defines what beauty is. It does this every season. If it were to represent disability in its shop windows and catalogues, then we would finally be able to prove that a juxtaposition of disability and beauty can and does exist! The power that the industry wields is beyond its own understanding, it would have the affect of normalising disability better than anything else that has happened before.

Question 6. The recent ad campaign released by Debenhams features Shannon Murray, a model in a wheelchair. This step Debenhams has taken is said to aim their clothing at a wider range of women in the UK. Do you think people would be more inclined to buy the product advertised by Shannon, rather than the average high street model? And if yes, do you think this trend would last once the publicity has quietened down?

The use of Shannon in Debenhams’s Principles range was extremely effective and successful, but again was the result of a huge campaign that has died now that the Channel 4 show has ended. However the Mannequal was featured in that same window a few weeks later, and I know that Debenhams are dedicated to changing how real women are represented and will continue to be the leading retailer in the High street to represented disability fairly.

Shannon modeled the clothing perfectly, the first example of how ‘if the clothes fit’ then the model ‘works’, and the clothes she modeled appealed to everyone, not just the disabled. Of course her picture was head turning, so the clothes she modeled would have got more attention than those worn by another generic high street model, so sales increased accordingly, but it cannot be defined as a ‘trend’ so I am unable to answer the latter question accurately.

In conclusion it feels it is only a matter of time until we start to see an improvement in how disability is considered, be it though models like Shannon or products like a Mannequal. How these changes come about are dependent on how much we want them, and how much effort we can put into realising them, as the fashion industry can’t resist change forever. It is change that improves the world in which we live.

Video of Sophie talking about the Mannequal

Click on link above to watch

Interesting news article

Great little article in Cosmopolitan Magazine, here's to the future!